People are drawn to antique jewellery uk for the same reason they adore classic cars, first edition books and Old Master paintings. These pieces have stood the test of time, they have a story to tell and they retain their value.
Jewellery is a very personal choice and if you are going to invest in antique jewellery it is important that you understand what to look for. Unlike modern pieces that are all cast, antique and vintage jewellery was made by hand.
Rolled Gold
Rolled gold was a popular jewellery technique throughout the Victorian period. It was produced by fusing thin sheets of 9ct gold either side of a base metal, usually silver and is heat bonded and rolled into flat sheets. It has around 100 times more gold than ordinary gold plate and so if well-cared for can last many years.
It is also known as gold filled, GF or RGP and is more durable than other gold techniques such as gold vermeil, fire gilding or ormolu (which uses mercury). The term is often used interchangeably with Gold plate but there are important differences between these and the higher quality of rolled or gold cased pieces.
The quality and value of rolled gold pieces varies widely, depending on age and condition and whether it has been cleaned correctly. The best way to clean rolled gold is with a soft cloth, gently wiping away dirt and oils. Avoid using chemicals, cleaners and chlorine from swimming pools as these can damage the gold layer.
Gold Cased
Like rolled gold but much more common place within antique jewellery, Gold cased is a long lasting form of gold plating done on a silver base. It means the item won’t tarnish or wear off and is just as durable as solid Gold.
This was a common technique in the Georgian era to allow people to own Gold jewellery without the cost of a full 18 carat piece. It was also an alternative to using fire-gilding, which had the side effect of making jewellers blind, due to the mercury used in this process.
This method is different to gold plated jewellery (invented in the 1840s), which has a much thinner layer of gold on a base metal. It is not hallmarked, unlike rolled Gold and Gold cased and so can be misleading for the unwary buyer. It will, however, test as Gold when subjected to an acid test. It is not to be confused with ‘gold filled’ which is legally defined as having at least 5% of Gold in a bonded material.
Gold Pinchbeck
Pinchbeck is a brass alloy that simulates gold. It was developed in the 18th Century by clock maker Christopher Pinchbeck and consists of copper and zinc, which give it a very close resemblance to gold. It was used as a cheaper alternative to gold for fixtures and jewellery, especially in places where theft was a risk, such as stagecoaches.
During the Georgian period pinchbeck was highly sought after, particularly because it didn’t tarnish as easily as brass and other gold substitutes. This gorgeous pinchbeck mourning locket is a beautiful example of this period’s jewellery.
Identifying pinchbeck can be difficult, but it’s worth paying attention to weight, stamps and markings, wear and tear, as well as the colour of the piece, as this will help you to determine whether it is genuine gold. It is important to note that although it resembles gold when new, pinchbeck darkens with age. Pinchbeck was used for a long time, until around the mid-nineteenth century when electroplating allowed 9ct gold to become legal and thus obsoleted it.
Gemstones
Gemstones have been a source of fascination and intrigue for thousands of years. They have been used to adorn the crowns of monarchs, embellish clothing, and serve as talismans for wealth, good luck, and protection. Their history and significance transcends cultural boundaries, as they are revered throughout the world.
Gem stones are natural minerals that have unique physical and chemical properties. They are divided into two categories: precious and semi-precious. Precious gemstones include diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds; semi-precious gemstones include amethyst and garnet.
Some gems are crystalline in form and may contain inclusions or impurities that contribute to their color, luminosity, or durability. Inclusions can also cause a stone to change color or texture over time. Some stones are cut as smooth, dome-shaped cabochons and are known as cabochons; other stones are faceted using machine tools to create small flat windows called facets at regular intervals and at specific angles. The latter are referred to as faceted gems.
